Kailash Manasarovar Yaatra
 |
|||
|
Kailash Manasarovar Yaatra
|
|||
|
*-Ashok Turki Dhar
|
|||
 t was the summer of 1973. We were on the third day of our pilgrimage to Sri Sri Amarnathji. As we took the customary snan (holy bath) at the holy Sheshnag Lake, I lingered on for a moment. The surroundings suddenly felt still, the lake spoke no word. As I looked at the deep blue mirror-like waters of the lake, I was mesmerized. In that tranquil state of mind, I experienced a deep inner calm. I bent to pay homage to the holy Sheshnag once more with adoring reverence. A thought suddenly sprouted in my mind: “Oh Almighty, may I offer my humble salutations to you at Lake Mansarovar!”This thought remained embedded in my consciousness for years together. Though I got an opportunity to undertake pilgrimages to most of the well-known holy places of India, but Kailash-Manasarovar remained elusive. Having retired from service, I gave up the idea for fear of physical fatigue.
The Call One day while visiting Mahavtar Babaji Meditation Center at Palmapur, H.P., the most revered Yogiraj Swami Amarjyoti Ji Maharaj asked me if I would like to join Kailash-Manasarovar Yaatra. Hearing this, my whole being vibrated with joy. To me, this offer, coming after nearly three decades of my quest, was more like the proverb “yali daya sundh aasi naad” (a call from the higher-Self) coming true.
The Boundless Guide It is difficult to give an introduction of a truly realized master like Yogiraj Swami Amarjyotiji Maharaj, a direct disciple of Mahavatar Babaji, who was going to lead the group on this pilgrimage. Perhaps one can get a glimpse of His personality from the note the Red Indian from Ontario-interiors of Canada wrote, in their journal : “…how regal he appears dressed in spotless white robe, his long silvery hair flowing peacefully down his back, he looks ancient and yet strangely young and childlike, his smile radiant and his steps brisk and what a mysterious wonderful form. Swami Amarjyoti literally mean ‘Eternal Light’, ...that light which clearly emanates from his gracious presence and what an aura of fragrance of flowers and chandan permeating the surrounding bringing a peaceful feelings”. The Route The Preparation The Departure At Kathmandu Overlooking Mt. Everest |
|||
 Potola Palace, Lhas |
|||
|
The Monasteries
We had two days to acclimatize to the high altitude and dry air at Lhasa. After some rest at Holiday-Inn, we visited Patola Palace, Norbhulinka Palace, Drepung Monastry, and the famous Barkhor bazaar. The climb to Potola Palace (the abode of all Dalai Lamas) was steep. The palace was originally built in the 7th Century. In the 17th century the 5th Dalai Lama extended the palace to its present form and size. It is 116 meters high and has 13 levels. We saw the living quarters, central temples, stupas and the dormitories for monks. We were awestruck with the colourful display of Tibetan treasures having great cultural and religious significance. The Silent Sufferers-Pandits and Lamas The Tough Ride The Cry of Joy Stunning View of Lake Manasarovar |
|||
 Rakshastal on left and Manasraovar on right. (Courtesy Google Earth API) |
|||
|
We camped nearby. After some rest, all yaatris took a holy dip in the icy cold waters of Lake Manasarovar. Remembering my date with destiny, I waded a bit deeper into the holy waters. Once again I was alone. Surrounded by the magnificence of nature, I remembered my promise to myself. I could not hold my emotions. Silent tears trickled down from my eyes. Finally, with waters in my hand, I paid my homage to the Almighty, concluding that I know nothing, I own nothing, I want nothing. My purushartha had melted away.
Legends of Lake Manasarovar Buddhists legend says that Queen Maya, while in a dream state, was transported to this Anotatta Lake by Gods and after purifying her body and womb, she was made ready to receive the future Buddha. They believe that the future Buddha, riding a white elephant, descended from the direction of Mt. Kailash. It is widely believed that gods descend to bathe in the lake at Brahmamoorath, between 2 to 4 am and only highly elevated persons and yogis have darshan of these celestial masters. Legends of Rakshas Tal |
|||
 Holy ‘Snan’ at Lake Manasarovar |
|||
| Parikrama (Circumambulation)
Lake Manasarovar, the highest fresh water lake, situated at an altitude of 15,000 feet above sea level towards the South of Mt. Kailash, has a circumference of 110 kms, which can to be trekked in 3-5 days or by Land Cruisers in one day. We did full parikrama of the lake in Land Cruisers. We were all along conscious about awe-inspiring background of Mt. Kailash. Legends of Mt. Kailash The followers of Bonpa (the ancient Tibetan religious tradition) call Mt Kailash as Yungdrung Guste, translated as “the nine-story swastika mountain”. It is the abode where the founder of the Bonpa tradition and their protective deity Tonpa Shenrab descended to earth from heaven. It lies close to ancient Bon territory known as Shangshung. Bonpa pilgrims follow parikrama (called by locals as Kora) path in anticlockwise direction, unlike Hindu and Buddhist followers who do it clockwise.. |
|||
 Breathtaking View of Mt Kailash |
|||
|
Buddhists call Mt Kailash as ‘Kang Rinpoche’ ‘the snow of the precious jewel’. Demchok is their guardian deity of the peak. Demchok is depicted like Lord Shiva, wraped in a tiger skin and wearing an intimidating garland of human skulls. According to the Tibetan scriptures, he holds a damaru - a small drum – in one hand and a khatam – trident – in the other.The Shakti, or spouse, of Demchhok is Dorje-Phangmo or Vajra Varahi.
Hindus believe that Mount Kailasha is the manifestation of the mythological Mount Sumeru, or Meru. It is seen as the spiritual pillar of the universe around which everything else revolves. The root of the pillar is in the lowest hell and the summit of the pillar is kissing the heavens. Some believe it to be center of the universe and compare it to sahasara chakre (thousand- petalled-lotus crown) of Kundalini Yoga. Hindus worship Mt. Kailash (or Rudravase) as the abode of Lord Shiva and Uma Parvati (Divine mother of the Universe, Shakti). Its exceptional isolation and peculiar contours of black granite give it the appearance of Shiva Linga placed on a lotus pedestal. For Hindus a journey to Kailash is considered the ultimate Yaatra due to both the difficulty of reaching it and the level of sanctity attached to it. Through millennia many lamas, yogis and other pilgrims from all over the world have braved uncertainty and hardships to reach this abode of the Highest of the gods. It is widely believed that many years ago a group of visiting monks heard thebchime of bells and drum beats. Even today some pilgrims claim that they have heard this mysterious sound coming from the direction of Mt. Kailash. Shiva Purna says that there is no sin in the world which cannot be destroyed by a dip in Mansarovar and parikrima of Mount Kailash. Conventional wisdom says that a single parikrama of Kailash and Mansarovar wipes out ‘sins of a life time and 108 parikarma leads to enlightenment’. Four Great Rivers The Kora of Mt. Kailash We camped at Darchen (place of large prayer flag) as the weather started worsening. We came to know that only a few days earlier five pilgrims had attained moksha in this area due to heavy snowfall. Weather in this area could change suddenly. We had to be well prepared. The next day we trekked a distance of 10-12 km from Darchen to Dirapuk. We had to face lashing rains, hail storm, and heavy snow. At high altitude with lox oxygen, the journey became increasingly difficult. We had to walk on rugged paths covered with snow using heavy shoes, many layers of clothing and also carry some essentials with each of us. It was slow progress. But the moment we had a glimpse of the edge of the North face of Kailash Parvat, our agony was gone. It gave us a new vigour and vitality to move on. The keenness of having the full darshan of Kailashnath became the greatest motivator I have ever experienced in my life. With the clouds moving away, we felt as if we were looking at many shivlingas congregated into one mammoth Maha Shivlinga. We gazed non-stop at this isolated splendor. Snow covered blackish-brownish pyramid in the midst of vast surroundings of gray earth and loose rocks looked to be like the morning sun that eclipses and outshines all the candles and lamps on the earth. It is difficult to find words that can truly express the feelings of gratitude, satisfaction, surrender, love, adoration, which sprang from the core of everyone’s heart at the same time. The analytical mind was completely subdued. It was like a communion with one’s inner reality. Since in the Tibetan Plateau, the sunrise takes place around 5 am and sets at around 9 pm, it gave us ample opportunity to pay our obeisance and observe Mt. Kailash reflecting varying hues, depending upon the angle of the sunrays. We observed pink, maroon, deep yellow and golden hues radiating against the silver backdrop of snow, above its dark chocolate coloured base. Such sights can only be cherished. We observed that Mount Kailash, (which is 22,028 feet above sea level), is the only pyramid type solid granite mountain among many smaller neighboring mountains of gray loose rock. Its physical grandeur lies in its distinct shape with four faces aligned to the NSEW cardinal directions. The south face, having many vertical formations, is most captivating, and one can look for signs and symbols of half-closed eyes, nose, smile, locks of hair, omkara, etc.. This reminds one of the term “Dakshinamurthi”. |
|||
 Gauri Kund |
|||
| Mystical Waters
Many yaatris trek upto Dirapuk, have darshan of the North face and return. They believe that a full parikrama should not be done, because one should not cross over the pranali (water outlet from Shivlinga). They go up to Gaurikund and return. Some of us accepted this advice. Gauri Kund, the holy lake, between Dirapuk and Zulhaturle, is believed to be gifted by Lord Shiva to Mata Parwati. Gauri Kund is described as ‘lake of compassion’ in Shiv Puran. The Hindus believe that the mystical waters of Gauri Kund have cleansing and redeeming power that can bring spiritual and physical well being to man. We had carried along milk from our home in Tetra Packs with bel pattas (bel leaves), incense sticks, earthen lamps, ghee, dry prasad, wood and hawan smagri. With these items we worshiped Lord Shiva, the Kailashpati at Dirapuk and on our return performed a yagya on the banks of Lake Manasarovar, seeking blessings and thanking the Almighty for this once-in-a-life-time darshana. All through our trek, we kept on reciting “Om Namah Shivaya”. Our Gratitude At the end, all the yaatris conveyed their gratitude singly and collectively to our guide, protector, and guardian, Yogiraj Swami Amarjyotiji Maharaj. |
|||
 Author at the North face camp |
|||
|
This pilgrimage made me realized how little we knew about this least visited but most venerated teerth-sthan, which is in spiritual rhythm with the cosmos and acts as a link with the Creative Consciousness. Respecting the sacredness of the Mt Kailash, no one has ever trekked on this mountain.
Strings of nostalgia vibrate when I recall the magnificent colour-dance of Lord Shiva under the brilliant sunrays. Each of us carried back with us the holy waters of Gauri Kund and Mansarovar Lake, small stone formed naturally in the shape of Mt Kailash, new friends, a lot of photographs and a new spiritual aspiration. Om Namah Shivay! |
|||
 |
|||
|
|
|||
|
|||
| Copyrights © 2007 Shehjar online and KashmirGroup.com. Any content, including but not limited to text, software, music, sound, photographs, video, graphics or other material contained may not be modified, copied, reproduced, republished, uploaded, posted, or distributed in any form or context without written permission. Terms & Conditions. The views expressed are solely the author's and not necessarily the views of Shehjar or its owners. Content and posts from such authors are provided "AS IS", with no warranties, and confer no rights. The material and information provided iare for general information only and should not, in any respect, be relied on as professional advice. Neither Shehjar.kashmirgroup.com nor kashmirgroup.com represent or endorse the accuracy or reliability of any advice, opinion, statement, or other information displayed, uploaded, or distributed through the Service by any user, information provider or any other person or entity. You acknowledge that any reliance upon any such opinion, advice, statement, memorandum, or information shall be at your sole risk.
|
|||
*ASHOK TURKI DHAR retired as General manager North Sarabhai Piramal. Presently setteled at Gurgaon, Haryana (India)