FISH TALES!!! *-B.L. Dhar |
ne of nature’s finest species, the rippling schools of fish in water is a source of delight and also the most consumed food in the world. I dare say I disliked fish when out of water and on a plate. That is until some gypsies in Europe made me change my opinion of these slippery creatures. It was in Berlin, Germany while visiting a local fair that I first encountered the real taste of fish. The gypsies of the European nations (mostly from east European countries like Hungary, Romania, Poland, Czechoslovakia, Bulgaria etc) meet once every year in any pre-designated part of Europe to felicitate their patron saint on a particular day. While visiting the colorful festival of the gypsies, I had no option but to say YES to an offer of a plate of fish while witnessing the gypsy rituals. I was hungry and I had for company my younger brother, a Doctor (Surgeon) in Netherlands, who likes to eat fish. He made me eat the stuff available there, prepared and sold by the gypsies themselves from the colorful tents of their caravans, and I fell for it. I still remember the fried full sized fish covered with some herbal coating and served with sauce and French fries as accompaniment. It was wonderful. I didn’t know fish really is so tasty. Or may be I was hungry, that did the trick. But I happened to make another attempt at another location in Amsterdam at a different time and in more congenial surroundings and to my delight I found I really was missing something all along. I was astonished to find some eating joints in England dealing exclusively with fish and chips. I am a fish fan now and no more fishy tales. The allurement has grown to the extent that I like to savor all different varieties that are prepared with all different methods and kinds of condiments. On further forays in the fish markets of the US, I found out all about the trout and the pink salmon. I dare say these are marvelous savory species and should be tried at any cost. I would not like to exclude some distant cousins of the fish family like the lobster, particularly the red lobster of Boston (USA) that is a prized lot. With a growing appetite for fish I had no option but to learn the delicate art of fish preparation so that I keep my taste buds constantly wet. I do not, however, like the idea that I cook fish without knowing how to do it. I had to study a great many recipe books to learn all about making good fish. So I have preserved a few recipes and trust making these delicacies with a great enthusiasm only after I have followed the method and mastered the art of spice making to enliven the dish that contains fish. I first learnt the art from my own mother who used to make delicious “Kashmiri” fish at home. She would coax me into eating the stuff and I always managed to get away before getting caught in the smells. After my return from Europe on “Gaad-Bat” day she was pleasantly surprised when I offered to taste the Kashmiri variety that she used to make so delicately and with a passion. It is important you know what your meal is comprised of if you really want to enjoy the food. And that includes going into the details of making and spicing it. Firstly, we should know that fish is a delicate creature that requires a delicate handling. It is as well a beautiful species and one should look at it with a beautiful mind. I would not take the liberty of recommending a selection from the various kinds of fish available, but the one that comes easily to mind is the commonly available sweet water variety “Rohu” or “Katla”. These are the tastiest variety that can be picked up from any local market in India. The art of making the fish for the palate is really very simple if you follow the steps in the process of cooking. I take the pleasure to write about making of “Kashmiri” style cooking of fish from my mother’s recipe. Please make sure that the ingredients mentioned have no substitute and should be prepared as indicated. I have also experienced that fish heads should be cooked separately and not included in the main dish, though some of you may differ with my view. Try it my way and you will note the difference. It has also to be kept in mind that the Kashmiri preparation does not include use of onions, garlic or tomatoes. Surprisingly it still tastes good. Ingredients: (to serve four) Rohu or Katla fish: about 1 kg. Mustard Oil: about 200 ml. Kashmiri Mirch: 2 teaspoons. Haldi Powder: 2 teaspoons. Sonth (dry ginger) Powder: 1 teaspoon, Sonf (aniseed) Powder: 2 teaspoons. Cloves: six, Green Chilies: four, Salt to taste. Explanation: As indicated above, there can be no deviation from the masala choice in order to preserve the Kashmiri authenticity of the palate. The “Kashmiri Mirch” is commonly available in the market these days from reputed brands. The “Sonf” and “Sonth” powder, if not available in the market, can be prepared by grinding dry ginger and aniseed. All such masala powders should preferably be of a fine grind. It is emphasized once again that there is no requirement of onions, tomatoes, garlic, fresh ginger or any other herb. No alternates to these spices are recommended. The fry medium should be mustard oil only. For friends in the US the alternative is Olive oil. The weight of the fish indicated is after cleaning and minus the head portion, meaning you select a single fish that is over one kg in weight so that after the head is detached you still have a kg left. You may select the required cut portion of fish from a bigger size, where such facility is available. Preparation: Step-1. Cut the fish in thick round pieces after cleaning and washing and apply two teaspoons of “Haldi” powder to all the pieces all over. Leave for about 30 minutes to marinate. Now bring mustard oil to a full boil in a “Karhai” until smoke is seen coming out of it. Fry the fish pieces in small numbers at a time till it takes a golden brown color. The deeper you fry the fish the tougher the final product. Remember the fish is not tasty if it is tough. It should only be firm so that it does not break while cooking. Remove fried fish from the “karhai” and keep separate in a bowl until all the pieces are fried. Step-2. The balance of oil left after frying the fish may now be used to finally cook the gravy for the fish. Soon after frying, put two teaspoons each of “Kashmiri Mirch” and “Sonf”, one spoon of “Sonth” and the six cloves in the remaining oil and stir for just a while. Add a cupful of water to the fried masala and stir for a few seconds. Add the fried fish and top the contents with more water in such a way that the fish is totally immersed in it. Add salt as required, and put the four green chilies in the “karhai” and sink these with the help of a flat spoon. Do not use the spoon to adjust the setting of the fish inside, as it will break the contents. The green chilies must be slit to release the tangy taste for fish to absorb. Cover the “karhai” with a plate. Simmer the heat and cook on slow setting until the gravy thickens. Remove fish from the “Karhai” and put in a bowl to serve. Use a broad flat spoon for removal of the cooked fish from the cooking pan and also while serving. Step-3. Eat the succulent pieces of the fish with rice after it has slightly cooled. The taste will simply lure you to eat more everyday. So much talk about fishy tales. Bon appetite. |
B. L. Dhar was born and educated at Srinagar. Did Master's degree in Mathematics. Took up appointment with the Civil Aviation Sector of the G.O.I. as a gazzetted officer and later joined the PSU, Airports Authority of India (AAI) from where he retired as General Manager in 2000. At present residing at Delhi with frequent visits to the US and Europe where his kith and kin reside. Has interest in writing. |
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Way to go Dad! As usual, you make it sound deceptively simple. But it is true that we Kashmiris have a unique cooking style using nothing but the most basic condiments. And not to forget the inimitable no-pressure-cooker use for cooking mutton. Of course in today's fast paced world that would raise some eyebrows.
Added By Sandeep Dhar